Tabloid - The Informer

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Information about Tabloid - The Informer

Published on December 4, 2016

Author: AaliyaGujral


1. Volume No.- 2 , Issue No.- 83 Monday, September 26th , 2016 (WEEKLY) Gender has gradually become a term to denote whether you’re male or female with respect to sociocultural differences rather than biological ones. Gender identity however, is your innate sense of being a man, women, both or perhaps neither and it may or may not be the same as that assigned at birth. This identity, when represented through your body language, hairstyle, clothing, becomes an expression of your proclaimed gender. An individual sporting a certain garment (like a skater dress), a certain profession (figure skating), or being sentimental is instantly labelled as feminine. Similarly going to the gym, being athletic and showing aggression are considered masculine traits. This exemplifies the preconceived notions and gender roles that lead one to define things as masculine or feminine. It’s not just how you express yourself but how that expression is interpreted in the context of preset societal definitions. However, radicals today seek to question these predefined socio cultural norms that define gender in the first place. Throughout the course of history, human beings have gathered rigid diktats and formed a database that is now being challenged. We wish to accommodate gender multiplicity –LGBT, now LGBTQIA, also embraces those that identify as queer, intersex or asexual. Besides male and female, Facebook provide a custom gender option and a choice of ‘they’ for those who associate with neither ‘he’ nor ‘she’. Gender neutrality got recognition as a third gender at the University of Vermont in the US. Leading American high schools are gradually joining the trend by introducing a policy where students can choose which restroom to use depending on how they identify and not their biologically defined gender. Present day style icons and celebrities are realizing the potential of their fame to highlight greater issues by challenging societal mindsets. From Ranveer Singh to Miley Cyrus to Jaden Smith sporting dresses to Bruce Jenner liberating the Caitlyn within himself, they have all become symbols of genderfluidity. As society propagates the concept of a gender-fluid identity, the fashion industry works to satiate a want for gender-less clothing. Girls are seen donning ‘boyfriend jeans’, boys too touch up their make-up time to time. The term ‘boyfriend jeans’ however, would be controversial in today’s time. It again associates one with a gender, perhaps due to the silhouette and appearance. The shift towards a gender-less identity aims to avoid any labelization of masculine or feminine. Fashion is no longer about physical appearance but also acts as a medium of self-expression. Worldwide there’s a smattering of designers, labels, brands and even department stores ready to ride the tide. Selfridges made way for an ‘Agender’ section with clothes from labels like Rick Owens and Comme Des Garcons. Zara launched an ‘Ungendered’ capsule collection incorporating gender- free clothing. TillyandWilliam make gender deviant multipurpose garments that complement a person’s personal sense of aesthetic. Nicola Formichetti not only takes an ungendered approach with designs for Diesel, his brand Nicopanda had men wearing sheer tops, frilly skirts and dresses as well. Jaden Smith was recently made the face of Louis Vuitton womenswear. “He represents a generation that has assimilated the codes of true freedom, one that is free of manifestos and questions about gender,” said Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière. Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director, took a bold stance and sent men and women down the ramp in hot pink suits and pussy-bow tops transcending gender differences with the gender of most models being ambiguous. Be it designers or brands like Purushu Arie, Lovebirds, Dhruv Kapur, Christopher Kane’s, Rad Houran, Burberry Prorsum, Acne Studios, Todd Lynn and Sibling the list is endless and its only getting longer. Other corners of the fashion world are also joining the movement questioning archaic gender rules with advertisements, campaigns, editorials and magazines welcoming transgender models and gender- fluid clothing. Clothing marketed and identified by a binary gender system (male or female) may become obsolete in the time to come. The goal is to be a part of a collective that supports you for who you are and lets you be an individual the way you want. To give you a channel to find yourself by being given the freedom to be yourself. While change doesn’t happen overnight, the seeds have been sown to rethink, reinvent and redefine fashion. ARTSY COMMUNICATION Young Mumbai artists have chosen taxi interior as their canvas PAGE : 4 TREND ALERT Urban Nomad crosses the social gender barriers PAGE : 2 GENDERLESS MELODY Androgynous culture cherished by music icons for over 100 years PAGE : 3 GREENER INDIA Creative minds are leading India towards a better eco-friendly future PAGE : 4 BANNING BINARY The InformerBecause the world wants to know. Price- Rs. 10/- Jaden smith captioned a photo of himself in a dress saying “Went to TopShop to buy some girl clothes, I mean ‘clothes.’” AALIYA GUJRAL “I was fascinated about drapes and picked up the saree, I use it as a form of gender fluidity, For me it’s more about expresiing what i love rather than being feminine or masculine.” -Himanshu Verma Mon 26th Sep 25 / 34°C Tue 27th Sep 26 / 35°C Wed 28th Sep 26 / 35°C Thu 29th Sep 26 / 36°C Fri 30th Sep 27 / 35°C Sat 1st Oct 25 / 35 °C Model : Aveek Mitra Styled and photograped by Aaliya Gujral, Harshubh Kaur and Meher Bindra

2. People today move around a lot more than the previous generations. It has become easier to move overseas for work or studies. This trend of travelling has resulted in a lifestyle shift towards working on the go which in turn has given birth to the concept of an urban nomad. An urban nomad is someone who doesn’t wish to live a routine and mundane life with a permanent address and instead opts to live in miscellaneous locations around the world and prefers to just keep moving. Traditionally nomads used to travel to find basic necessities for survival like food and shelter, but the urban nomad on the contraire travels to find work spaces. These globe trotters wander from place to place in search of a new experience (no matter good or bad) and the next major career opportunity. The notion of an urban nomad is that of a hardworking and creative class living in our cities. They adopt a 24/7/365 lifestyle, creating their own opportunities and spaces to work and live. To sustain this lifestyle the essential needs of an urban nomad go beyond the basic requirements of air, shelter, food and water to include Wi-Fi connection, innovative forms of travel, relaxed natural habitats and the freedom to be themselves. The modern urban nomad has an interesting relationship with gadgets, they usually own a mobile phone, laptop and camera which help them maintain contacts through social media, manage their work and travel, stay connected with the world and be completely self sufficient. These gadets are lightweight, multifunctional and far less cumbersome than most other belongings. Following the principle of minimalism they tend to live in compact spaces with bare essentials. The same applies for their clothing which tends to be comfortable, unrestricted, minimal and casual. They could easily associate with the rising trend of genderless clothing in fashion which is also built on the foundation of comfort, individuallity, freedom of choice and a radical shift in mindset. A demand for the freedom to form your own identity unbound by societal constraints has resulted in the fashion industry responding with a trend to remove restrictive genderism from clothing. This non-binary trend is rooted in the concept of clothing for the human and not the gender. Clothing made to fullfill the basic necessities and help enrich your life rather than simply being ostentatious, holding you back and binding you to predictated rules of gender specific behaviour. The aim of these garments is not to make women more masculine or men more feminine. Instead the aim is to altogether abolish the characterisation of feminine or masculine based on appearance and structure. The attempt is to make fashion less binary and more inclusive and accomodating of diverse gender expressions and identities. While gender division in western wear has always been evident, in Indian attire garments have often been donned and altered by both sexes. The male dhoti is quite similar to a nauvari Maharashtrian sari, men are often spotted wearing a skirt like lungi, kings and queens have both worn jewelry and turbans, anarkalis worn by Sufi dancers and a classic morjari or kholapuri chapal are all perfect examples of gender-fluidity. Indian designers are not far from latching onto this new trend going back to our roots to derive differing forms of inspiration to reimagine and recreate a blend of nonconforming indo western garments. Clothing that can be seamlessly worn by both women and men and are liberating for those who seek to define their individuality. From Varun Bahl and JJ Valya to R V Purusothaman and Lovebirds this trend is spreading through the veins of this industry. They wish to redefine distinctive style in the truest sense of the word. Enabling the audience to liberate their views & come out of clichéd concepts of style and fashion. People need to broaden their mindset and give everyone the freedom to choose their lifestyle. The motive is to cause disruption in the mindset of people to free them from the constant struggle faced to conform to societal perception. The urban nomad much like the trend of genderless fashion wishes to lead a life of uncensored curiosity void of any judgments. The lifestyle of a nomad is fun and is generally an endless journey of constant change that brings you from one experience to the next, enriching and enlightening your life, making you feel alive. People and information are moving faster than ever before, a New York minute has become a minute too long, even ‘change’ is mimicking this rapid pace. You see a shift not only in lifestyle but also in the mindset of people today. They work to push boundaries, question rigid beliefs and intellectually challenge not only society but even themselves. They strive to regain control over their individuality and shun preset definitions and stigmatization. They want to be comfortable with who they are, how they live, what they wear and want the right to make that choice for themselves. Functionality and individuality are of greater value than conforming to what’s conventionally appropriate. People are finally taking back the right to choose. NEO NON CONFORMIST Neo nomads venture into the uncharterd territory of genderfluidity. AALIYA GUJRAL . HARSHUBH KAUR “I quit my boring corporate job to live an adventurous nomadic life.I still work actively to be able to fund my trips. I hope to inspire people, to come out of their cozy zone to discover the globe and live a little for themselves.” - Shivya Nath, Blogger 2 The Informer Model : Rishi Raj Styled and photograped by Aaliya Gujral, Aveek Mitra, Harshubh Kaur and Meher Bindra Model : Rishi Raj Styled and photograped by Aaliya Gujral, Aveek Mitra, Harshubh Kaur and Meher Bindra

3. t’s an old nature of fashion to blend two of the main existing rather socially accepted genders in our society by removing the and thin line between male and female clothing. Since 1920 when Coco Chanel decided to liberate women from the crinoline and illogically accentuated waistline she borrowed fabrics and silhouette from menswear only and made pantsuit, tweed jacket for women. Genderless fashion is not about cross-dressing, it is a more functional form of new age clothing. Over the past years we have seen ample amount of influences of androgynous culture on music industry. Celebrating same sex love or freedom of unconventional relationship has started around mid-1930s with blues divas Bessie Smith, Lucille Bogan and ‘Ma’ Rainey. These blues singers were arguably the first one to have the guts to talk about lesbian love in their songs. Along with the designers who wanted to give fashion an another vision, music industry were always up for putting their step forward against orthodox social norms, binary gender based ethics. Ever since in late 50s Elvis Presley started wearing liner to cherish his clean metrosexual look people started taking it further. Till then androgynous fashion was just associated with woman stepping into menswear in order to find comfort and free themselves against social boundaries. In late 60s a counter cultural movement started in London named ‘The Peacock Movement’ where rockstars, pop icons like jimi Hendrix, mick jagger, David Bowie started liberating their own self through various experiment in their attire leaving all inhibition behind. They challenged the social conformity and rigid gender stereotype in terms of clothes and relationship. They started embracing their feminine side without putting their masculinity or sexual orientation in question. Even in 80s Iconic popstar Prince just redefined the image of a male pop icon with his slender hips clad either in a jumpsuit or exotic Go go boots. But still he used to be considered one of most desirable sexy men. These men tried to blur the stereotypical line between two genders by keeping their own self alive. Even in early 90s Nirvana’s lead singer Kurt Cobain’s new age heterosexual take by leaving the macho man image generated an effective path for todays’ LGBT revolution. In recent times Lady Gaga’s alter ego and her tribute to David Bowie has evoked the gender fluidity in our society in a different way. The immense participation of music industry in androgynous culture created an effective boost for legalization of homosexuality in many countries. Let’s have a look at the most iconic music stars from past who has encouraged androgynous culture through their creative expression and clothing. GENDERLESS MELODY I Since 1960 legendary inspirations from the music industry have changed the way we look at genderless fashion. Their liberating ideology towards life works as a stimulus for new age androgynous movement. One of the major influential persons in peacock movement is David Bowie, an English songwriter and a famous singer of popular music. At least through five decades during his active career he had set a new definition of any pop icon’s image by his unconventional aesthetic choice . His androgynous alter ego ziggy stardust has created some iconic instance in fashion history. Be it his blue eyeshadow in his famous music video ‘Life on Mars’ or his asymmetrical jumpsuit he rocked all his unusual fashion moment.His red mullet, gold circle makup and specially the long hair was a completely unseen take on masculine beauty. Bowie’s look has been an inspiration for many designers like Alexander Mcqueen, Miu Miu, Givenchy, Jean paul Gaultier. Another victim of peacock movement in 60s was the lead singer and co-founder of famous rock band ‘The Rolling Stone’ Mick Jagger. His androgynous appeal and daring acceptance of his drug addiction made him the real poster boy for sex, drug and rock & roll. A very unusual kind of sexuality had been explored by Jagger during 60s through his extremely chic mod attire on his pretty lean figure. His fashion choices which includes unconventional colors like pink, green; shaggy style hair and excessively tight clothing like hip skimming jeans and poets blouse (more like a girl’s cropped top or girl’s blouse) made him a significant icon for androgynous fashion in music industry. MICK JAGGER GRACE JONES DAVID BOWIE Prince was an American singer and songwriter famous for variety of musical style including pop, rock, funk and R&B. His experiments in clothing with feminine embellishment on his metrosexual lean physique made him distinctive amongst other pop icons. The way he adopted the use of mascara and liner, his go go boots and sometimes high heels or his slender hips clad with jumpsuit made his image vulnerable, but not really feminine. Apart from all these his seductive performance in bikini bottoms, his worth watching dance and the way he played his guitar made him consciously desirable with a completely different sex appeal. He had that guts to see androgynous clothing from a completely different perspective and present it as an unconventional form of masculine attire. PRINCE Grace Jones is a Jamaican singer, lyricist, supermodel and actress. She is considered to be one of the most influential personality in fashion still now because of her distinctive fierce femininity with a bold masculine vibe. She is the perfect rebel to question the society about using women as only a commercial sex object. Her personality never said that she’s not a woman; but she’s a woman who is beyond just being objectified like other pop icon through their sensuality. Her signature flattop hair, 80s broad shouldered suit and androgynous appeal makes her an effective inspiration for gender blending fashion. Kurt Cobain was an American singer, best known as the lead singer, guitarist of the rock band ‘Nirvana’. Everybody knows how Nirvana has changed vision of rock music with their soft handed masculinity which says men can also cry over pain, masculinity is not only an arm racing game. Kurt Cobain was spotted in babydoll dress with liner and his iconic locks in order to challenge the grunge trend by pairing up tiaras and women’s retro sunglasses. This approach led him to move beyond the so called image of a rock legend by questioning the pre-decided gender norms. They never wanted to be indicated by their sex appeal, they always wanted to break the binaristic barriers like their songs. KURT COBAIN LADY GAGA Popstar Lady Gaga is never afraid to choose an avant garde image for herself without thinking about the acceptance of this society. If the question comes for androgynous clothing she has unveiled her male alter ego Jo Calderon for the the first time in stylist Nicola Formichetti’s debut collection for Mugler menswear for Vogue hommes japan’s cover in 2010. Gaga reprised her alter ego again for her ‘you & I’ video. Her non- conformist and carefree mindset towards fashion which only talks about being yourself is appropriately justified to free spirited androgynous fashion. It makes her one of the major boost for new age genderless revolution. Late 60s : The Peacock Movement 80s : Power packed androgyny 90s : Grunge Aesthetic 2010 : Gaga over everything “I have a very strong male side, which I developed to protect my female side. If I want a diamond necklace I can go and buy myself a diamond necklace.”-Grace Jones “I love Grace Jones and David Bowie because they both played with gender and with what ‘sexy’ means.” -Lady Gaga in Maxim Interview, 2008 Credit : Credit : Credit : Credit : Credit : Credit : AVEEK MITRA TI 3 The Informer

4. Along with expensive couture collection fashion is also about what people are wearing or want to wear in their daily life while struggling for the whole day in order to earn the basic needs for life. Be it luxury or pret collection, in the world fashion scenario there’s always an urge for making fashion more effective and nature friendly for a better future of mankind. In the similar context Adidas has taken an initiative in collaboration with a nonprofit organization ‘Parley for the ocean’, for cleaning up ocean pollution by using them in making their footwear and garments. They have converted all the plastics waste found under sea and the coastal areas into fabric by knitting them together using a technique called ‘Tailored Fabric Placement’. Adidas have used the recycled plastic fabric for making their new collection of shoe. The upper portion of that shoe is made out of ocean plastic and the mid sole is 3d printed with polymide and gillnet content. Similar type of instance have been set by the world’s first haptic technology footwear ‘Lachel’ designed by Ducere, India’s first wearable technology company from Hyderabad. Their special shoes allow visually disabled people to move around confidently as the GPS technology Implanted in the shoe will take them to their desired destination safely. The technology behind this cutting edge innovation is Haptic Technology which uses vibrations to indicate directions while walking. In India designers like Paromita Banerjee, Abraham & Thakore, Amit Aggarwal have used recycle as a core element in their creation. Amazon India Couture Week 2015 was awestruck at Paromita Banerjee’s ‘Boro 2’ collection where she showcased garment made of several small pieces of discarded fabric with different colors and textures. Abraham & Thakore had used x-ray plate from hospital waste to moulds for sequins and then used those for ornamentation along with caps of coke cans on the garment’s border. Amit Aggarwal presented his collection made using industrial wastes, his collection included asymmetrical tops and tunics, separates and the iconic straw skirt. According to Abraham said “We show one collection a year but like to start some conversation from our design space” At the same time Suzanne Lee, Founder of Biocouture Ltd, is heading the world’s first bio design consultancy firm focused on embracing nature rather than dominating it by bringing living and biological materials into fashion. She has developed a process of growing microbial material in a mixture of green tea, sugar and yeast to create a completely natural, 100% compostable product. “This is a method of fashion which is closer to brewing beer,” Lee says. The material can be dried, cut and sewn together to make clothes. Even Ably Apparel has created revolution by making water repellent fabric. They have inflexed filium with their garment’s fabric which turns their fabric into water shedding, stain- resisting and odor refusing without losing the natural features of the fabric. This logic is applicable to any kind of natural fabric like cotton, silk. This concept reduces the amount of laundry and allows you to use same garment for a whole long time without getting dirty or unhygienic. These productive approaches by several brands from different countries are definitely pushing the entire world towards a more functional and truly sustainable future for fashion. In India art has always been used as a form of communication through its own individual way. But the commercial showcase of communicative art might not be very effective in this country. Most of the time it has been restricted within a particular art enthusiast social groups in exhibitions or some other mediums. In Mumbai a group of designers have recently taken such initiative where applied art gets a little more exposure to the society. ‘Taxifabric’, the group of 30 young designers are using Mumbai taxi’s interior as their canvas for showcasing their graphic talent and making communicative art closer to ‘The People’ of Mumbai by revamping the taxi interior at the same time. Up until now they have launched 36 taxis which narrates several stories ranging from Bollywood to indian freedom fighters, from mumbai’s very own dabbawalas to their own childhood memories like moments spent at juhu chowpatty. Their initiative has given contemporary designers a great pathway to showcase their creativity. At the same time ‘Taxifabric’ is giving mumbai’s one of the most convenient and popular transport mediums an individuality which is extremely Indian and close to their heart. Eco friendly nature has always been desirable by humans since the beginning of the world. Few years back technological advancement used to be liable for the destruction of natural balance. But now people have started using technology to save this planet. People like Prof. Rajagopalan Vsudevan, known as ‘plastic man of India’ has generated a new process of using plastic in making streets. By mixing waste plastic with bitumen in a chemical process he made the required mixture for road making and this process reduced the use of bitumen also. He has already paved 3000 miles of streets using plastic waste in 11 different states in India. This invention is extremely effective for reducing pollution since making one street involves a huge amount of plastic waste which results in removing the plastic pollution from society. Another example of green living has been set by Priyashri Mani and Nishita Vasanth who have left their cement constructed home to live in their self-made mud house in Kodaikanal. Ample amount of research and creative use of technology have helped them to make their dream house to be built without any construction workers. Yes! They have created their own house with several kind of waste materials which includes old tyres, cement sacks and organic products like mud, cowdung , lime plaster for plaster. Though humans have started using science long time back, these inventions justify the true power of technology and science. Credit : Mayur Mengle , Niqita Gupta & Siddharth Samant Credit : Credit : Biocouture Ltd, photo Credit : Biocouture Ltd, photo Credit : “We show one collection a year but like to start some conversation from our design space” - David Abraham at “We wanted to have the experience of working manually”-Priyashri Mani at EFFECTIVE RENEWAL ARTSY COMMUNICATION GREENER INDIA Creating fashion out of nothing has become a regular nature of World Fashion Lexicon Bunch of young talented artists from Mumbai are using taxi interior as their canvas Simple & creative thoughts by some people are changing the way of living in India AVEEK MITRA . MEHER BINDRA Credit : Twitter Credit : Facebook AVEEK MITRA . MEHER BINDRA AVEEK MITRA . MEHER BINDRA 4 Credit : MissMalini Credit : MissMalini The Informer Credit : Mayur Mengle , Niqita Gupta & Siddharth Samant

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