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Seoul Official Dining Guide Book

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Information about Seoul Official Dining Guide Book
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Published on March 9, 2014

Author: kozazacom

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Seoul Dining Guide: A Delicious Epicurean Journey
Everything you need to know to get started on your food tour of Seoul.

Welcome to Seoul! Your taste buds are in for a real treat here in a city so full of culinary diversity and vibrant flavors that you’ll never look at eating the same way again. There is a vast wealth of delicacies to suit all palates and so we encourage you to be bold, to experiment, and above all, to enjoy the dining experience of a lifetime!

Last posted : 2013-04-29

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ul eo S Soul food of A DELICIOUS EPICUREAN JOURNEY

Contents Seoul, A 24-hour City of Taste ................................................................................... 004 Hansik, The Healthy Taste of Nature ........................................................................................ 008 Top 10 Must eat Foods in Seoul ...................................................................................................... 018 Top 10 Must visit Food Alleys in Seoul .................................................................................. 024 Seoul, My Soul Food ....................................................................................................................... 030 City Hall·Insa-dong·Dongdaemun Areas ............................................................................ 032 Hongik University·Yeouido Areas .................................................................................................. 042 Itaewon·Hannam-dong Areas ............................................................................................................ 050 Gangnam Area ......................................................................................................................................................... 058 Themed Epicurean Journeys in Seoul ............................................................ 070 Guide for Vegetarians .................................................................................................................................... 072 Guide to Teas & Desserts ......................................................................................................................... 080 Guide to Purchasing Food Products ........................................................................................... 092 Information Restaurant Guide A to Z ............................................................................................................................. 096 Seoul Traveling Guide ................................................................................................................................... 098 Restaurant Information Main Menu & Price Hours (Closing Days) Foreign Language Spoken Foreign Language Menu Directions Inquiries *If no closing days are indicated, restaurant is open year-round. For Public Holidays, see pg. 098. Soul food of Seoul A DELICIOUS EPICUREAN JOURNEY

A 24-hour city of taste ul eo S ⓒLim Chan-kyung 004 Welcome to Seoul! Your taste buds are in for a real treat here in a city so full of culinary diversity and vibrant flavors that you’ll never look at eating the same way again. There is a vast wealth of delicacies to suit all palates and so we encourage you to be bold, to experiment, and above all, to enjoy the dining experience of a lifetime! 005

The already famous kimchi and galbi are only the tip of the iceberg, but through these two dishes one can see the fundamental characteristics of Korean cuisine, which are health and nutrition. However, Seoulites also enjoy international cuisines, and so the visitor will find themselves spoiled for choice with the many thousands of restaurants available across the city. Whether it be Michelin-star French bistros, celebrated Japanese restaurants, or classy Mediterranean establishments, Seoul has it all. The number of Italian restaurants alone exceeds 7,000. The cooking methods employed in hansik, or Korean cuisine, bring out the distinct flavors of the ingredients, and the natural condiments and seasonings also enhance the rich aromas of each dish produced. This perhaps goes some way towards explaining the growing acclaim for hansik by chefs from around the world as a “fresh and healthy” cuisine essential for the busy fast-food driven culture of today. Whenever you’re feeling hungry, Seoul can serve you – 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The city is alive with fun and excitement literally round the clock, and you can see this in the food it offers. From fancy restaurants that are only open to reservations, to humble grilling establishments welcoming diners 24/7 – Seoul is overflowing with culinary wealth. And, as unique and diverse as these establishments are, they all have one thing in common: they are all second to none when it comes to taste. In addition to its efficacy, hansik is also characterized by its great diversity, and visitors to Seoul will find every aspect of Korea’s regional culinary variations throughout the capital. From fresh seafood caught in the southern waters of the peninsula to aromatic mountain greens harvested from the picturesque peaks of the east, Seoul is the focal point for sampling the ingredients of the nation, as famous restaurants from around Korea have opened up branches in Seoul. ⓒKyun Seok-ki 006 Now it’s your turn to choose the menu. We guarantee that whatever you choose, you’ll love it. ⓒMok Gil-sun 007

Hansik The Healthy Taste of Nature By: Han Bok-jin Successor of “Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 38 — Royal Culinary Art of the Joseon Dynasty” and professor of Korean Cuisine at Jeonju University. 008 Food is a great motivator. And although in the primitive era gathering food was life itself, in today’s world, what’s more important than finding something to eat is finding something good to eat. Food goes beyond eating; it is something to be enjoyed. A big part of traveling includes foods, new foods and good tasting foods. A country’s unique food culture is a valuable intangible asset that reflects the country’s culture. The current Korean meal, which consists of grains as its staple food and vegetables and meats as side dishes, came to be in the 4th Century during the Three Kingdoms era. The Korean peninsula, made up of oceans, plains and mountains, produces a great amount of livestock, produce and marine products. Korean cuisine started to gain worldwide recognition especially once fermented foods became popular for their health properties. 009

Hansik The Healthy Taste of Nature Characteristics of Hansik Well-balanced and Nutritious All-natural and Low in Fat Korean meals are a careful balance of carbohydrates, proteins, fibers, fats, vitamins and minerals. Starting with rice or noodles, a typical Korean meal is enhanced with various meats, fish, vegetables, seaweeds and fruits. Animal fats are kept to a minimum, with the necessary fats and other nutrients supplemented through seeds and nuts, in particular sesame seeds, walnuts, pine nuts, and gingko nuts. Korea’s diverse climate allows for a wide array of seasonal ingredients, including field and mountain greens, mushrooms, seafood and meats. They are enjoyed not only for their distinctive flavors, but also as nutritional supplements. Side dishes are typically not fried, while other dishes including soups, stews, and meats are boiled. Meats in particular are cooked by boiling and steaming for long periods to drain off and reduce fat. A Wealth of Condiments and Dressings Devotion and Dedication Korean dishes tend to be highly-seasoned and characteristically make use of soy sauce, sugar, green onions, garlic, sesame seeds, sesame oil, black pepper, and chili powder among other ingredients for flavoring. The predominance of these natural additives help give Korean cuisine its signature robust, sweet, and spicy tastes. Ingredients found in a typical Korean dish are usually chopped, thinlysliced, shredded, or crushed during the preparation process, and the end result is frequently tender and easy to digest. Kimchi in particular requires dedicated effort during the cutting, seasoning, and fermentation stages of its ingredients. ⓒKorean Food Foundation 010 011

Hansik The Healthy Taste of Nature Jang, Kimchi, and Jeotgal – Fermented Foods that are Worth the Wait Jang, the Root of Korean Cuisine Jeotgal, the Epitome of Fermentation Making ‘jang’ (a sauce or paste used as a condiment) is a major annual event in a Korean household. Soy sauce (ganjang) and soybean paste (doenjang) are essential fermented condiments unique to Korea. First, a substance known as meju is created by fermenting boiled and mashed soybeans. The meju can then be used to make jang: varieties include ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang (soybean paste) and gochujang (Korean chili paste). Doenjang and gochujang are also often served as side dishes. Jeotgal is a natural preserving additive made by salting seafood. During fermentation, the proteins in the ingredients break down, resulting in a unique aroma and taste. The most widely used forms of jeotgal in kimchi production are saeujeot (salted shrimp), jogijeot (salted croaker), hwangseogeojeot (salted pollack) and myeolchijeot (salted anchovy). Salted shrimp is often used to season soups or stews, while salted anchovy is used for seasoning vegetables. Various Types of Kimchi • • • • • • Baechu Kimchi (cabbage kimchi) Kkakdugi (radish kimchi) Bossam Kimchi (wrapped kimchi) Baek kimchi (white kimchi) Oi Sobagi (cucumber kimchi) Dongchimi (radish water kimchi) Kimchi, Providing Health to the Korean People Kimchi is created by pickling certain types of vegetable together and seasoning them with jang and /or vinegar and other spices. Its distinctive taste derives from the sour lactic acids formed during the fermentation process and the spicy chili powderadded during preparation. The ingredients and condiments used to make kimchi vary widely according to the region, customs, and personal preference of the person making it, resulting in over 200 established varieties of the dish. Before winter begins, most households will make enough kimchi to last them through the cold season. This annual event is known as gimjang. ⓒKorea Tourism Organization 012 013

Hansik The Healthy Taste of Nature Korean Table Setting A Korean table setting consists of a main dish accompanied by various side dishes. The name of each table setting depends upon the main dish being served. If it is rice, the setting is known as bansang; if it is (rice) porridge, it is called juksang, and if the main dish comprises noodles, dumplings, or rice cake soup, the table setting is known as jangguksang. Bansang, the most common, also changes its name depending upon to whom it is being served. For example, if served to the royal court, it becomes surasang, to the upper class, jinjisang, and to the commoner, bapsang. Although the number and types of side dishes on the table have changed through the years, the main components of rice and side dishes have remained the same. The basic structure of the Korean meal consists of rice, soup, stew, kimchi and several different condiments (jang). A table with three side dishes is called a samcheop bansang, one with five side dishes is called an ocheop bansang, and so on, with Korean numerals (sam = 3; o = 5) prefixing cheop based on the number of dishes present. Traditionally, Korean cuisine is served on a communal table. The spoon and chopsticks are placed to the right of the dinnerware, with the spoon on the outside and the chopsticks on the inside. There is also a 2-person table known as gyeomsang. The side dishes are centered on the older person, and the rice, soup, and silverware are added for the younger person. Dishes are arranged in rows, with the first row facing the most senior diner and containing a bowl of rice on the left, soup on the right and stew behind. The second row contains the soy sauce, gochujang vinaigrette and soy sauce vinaigrette, while the third and final row contains different types of kimchi (such as dongchimi or nabak) placed on the right. Braised or steamed dishes are placed behind the stew to the right of the table. The rest of the side dishes can be placed anywhere, though salty sides such as pickles (jangajji) or salted seafood (jeotgal ) are usually located on the left, while seasoned vegetables (namul ) are placed in the center, and hot dishes such as grilled meats are placed on the right. [Gucheop bansang] kimchi ➎ ➏ ➊ ➑ ➊ jeotgal water kimchi ➐ ➒ ➋ ➌ soy sauce soy sauce vinaigrette rice steamed/ boiled dish ➍ stew gochujang vinaigrette ➋ grilled meat ➌ jeon ➍ raw fish ➎ dry side dishes ➏ braised dish ➐ salad ➑ namul ➒ jangajji soup ⓒKorean Food Foundation 014 015

Step by Step Like to explore the cuisine of foreign lands? You’ll find Seoul your most rewarding and adventurous culinary expedition yet! From the most elaborate court cuisine of the Korean royal palace to the humblest temple food found deep in the mountains, Seoul is the place to enjoy traditional hansik forged from ancient recipes passed down through time. Whether you are a beginner or a veteran of Korean food, here is a guide for those embarking on an epicurean journey through Seoul. Recommended Korean Dishes for International Visitors Veteran Daring dishes that even Koreans have a hard time trying ◈ Jeotgal ◈ Mulhoe Salted seafood (hwangseogeojeot, saeujeot, bamjeot, etc.) Cold raw fish soup ◈ Gwamegi ◈ Jangajji (dubu, deodeok, gochu, mumallaengi, kongip, sancho, etc.) ◈ Hongeo hoe Raw skate ◈ Bugak (gajuk, gochu, gim, dasima, etc.) ◈ Sundae ◈ Namul ◈ Ganjang gejang For those who have already tried hansik and are ready to take things to the next level. Korean rolls Temple food Royal hot pot Pork backbone stew ◈ Yukpo ◈ Mugeunji ◈ Juk Rice porridge ◈ Topokki Stir-fried rice cake ◈ Jjajangmyeon ◈ Hamheung Naengmyeon Noodles with black soybean sauce ◈ Doenjang jjigae Hamheung-style chilled buckwheat noodles ◈ Kalguksu ◈ Bibimbap ◈ So bulgogi (so galbi ) Noodle soup Rice topped with various vegetables and beef then mixed with Korean chili paste ◈ Bossam Soybean paste stew ◈ Dak galbi ◈ Seolleongtang (doganitang /gomtang) ◈ Tteokgalbi For those new to both Korean culture and cuisine. ◈ Hangwa Beef jerky ◈ Samgyetang Ginseng chicken soup ◈ Soju Beef bulgogi (beef ribs) ◈ Jeon (Bindaetteok / pajeon) Korean style pancake ◈ Japchae Glass noodles with sautéed vegetables Napa wraps with pork Ox bone soup (ox knee soup / beef bone soup) Grilled short rib patties Beginner ◈ Sinseollo Kimchi stew ◈ Jokbal ◈ Gimbap ◈ Sachal eumsik ◈ Gamjatang ◈ kimchi jjigae Blue crabs marinated in soy sauce Tea confectionery ◈ Budae jjigae Korean sausage ◈ Pyeongyang Naengmyeon Intermediate ◈ Dasik Deep-fried dried vegetables or seaweeds Raw octopus For the more adventurous crowd looking to experience the true taste of Korea Silkworm Pupa Pickled vegetables (tofu, deodeok, Korean chili, dried radish, bean leaf, etc.) Half-dried herring or billfish ◈ Sannakji Advanced ◈ Beondegi ◈ Yangnyeom chicken ◈ Spicy Fried Chicken Dweji bulgogi (dweji galbi ) Pork bulgogi (pork ribs) ◈ Samgyeopsal Soju Pork belly ◈ Makgeolli Korean Rice Liquor PhotoⓒKorea Tourism Organization 016 017

Must eat Foods in Seoul By: Kim Seong-yun Chosun Daily Food Columnist ⓒKorea Tourism Organization 1 Bibimbap (Rice Mixed with Vegetables and Beef) Bibimbap is one of Korea’s most wellknown dishes. It is a dish that is very much in line with the overall Korean food philosophy, as it is both delicious and nutritious. Depending on the ingredients used, bibimbap can be a meat-based or vegetarian dish. Regions throughout the Korean Peninsula have their own unique versions of bibimbap, but the most famous is the one from Jeonju-si in Jeollabukdo. The dish has changed over the years – most notably with today’s practice of using chili paste instead of soy sauce as in ancient times – likely in order to better savor the taste of each individual ingredient. 018 2 Jeon (Korean Pancake) Better known as ‘Korean pancake,’ jeon is as popular among tourists as is bibimbap. In Korea, people enjoy eating jeon on rainy days, and it has been shown that during the monsoon season, sales of oil and flour hit the roof. Especially popular are pajeon, green onion pancake, and kimchijeon, or ‘kimchi pancake’. Bindaetteok is a pancake comprised of pork and kimchi added to a mung bean batter. Although it is originally from the Hwanghaedo and Pyeongando regions of North Korea, it is now enjoyed throughout South Korea as well. Koreans will customarily dip jeon in soy or other sauces to improve its flavor. 019

Top 10 Must eat Foods in Seoul 3 Bulgogi / Galbi Koreans love meat – so much so that it was even written in ancient Chinese history books that “Koreans enjoy grilling meat.” At one point in the Joseon Dynasty, Koreans were eating so much meat that there were not enough cows around to work the fields, and it became prohibited to kill cows used for farming. Traditionally, meat was – and still is – marinated in a sweet soy sauce-based marinade before grilling, but since the 1980’s, lightly salted grilled beef has also become quite popular. 4 Samgyeopsal (Grilled Pork Belly) Samgyeopsal is a cut of pork belly meat whose name literally translates to ‘three-layered meat’. Although two to three times more expensive than other pork cuts, Koreans love samgyeopsal and the demand for it is so high that it is even imported from countries such as Denmark and France. Chunky slices of samgyeopsal are typically char-grilled or cooked in a pan, then wrapped in lettuce or sesame leaf with garlic and ssamjang (soybean dipping sauce), although restaurants often also specialize in their own unique dipping sauces. However, the best accompaniment to samgyeopsal is none other than Korea's famous alcohol, soju. ⓒKorea Tourism Organization 020 ⓒKorea Tourism Organization 5 Samgyetang (Ginseng Chicken Soup) There is a strong belief in Korea that the body’s energy must be replenished during the hot months of summer. Therefore when the heat of summer is at its peak, many people will eat samgyetang, or chicken ginseng soup. Samgyetang is made by stuffing a small hen with ginseng, glutinous rice, garlic, jujubes and chestnuts then slow-cooking the ingredients until the meat is tender. The resulting broth alone, slightly bitter in taste, is considered efficacious and good for rejuvenating tired bodies. Some samgyetang restaurants in Seoul also serve diners a shot of insamju (ginseng liquor), before bringing the chicken, as it is believed that a small amount of alcohol in advance actually helps the body absorb all the nutrients from the food. 6 Yangnyeom Chicken (Spicy Fried Chicken) Yangnyeom chicken is a uniquely Korean take on American-fried chicken, which was first introduced into the country after the Korean War and extremely popular by the 1980s. By the following decade, Korean restaurateurs began experimenting with their own versions of the dish, coating the chicken with a sweet and spicy sauce, and yangnyeom chicken was born. Since then, further variations have appeared, with soy sauce chicken being a key example. Yangnyeom is now a popular late-night snack and typically served with beer. Chi-maek, meaning ‘chicken and maekju (beer)’, is a common slang used by young adults. ⓒKorea Tourism Organization ⓒKorea Tourism Organization 021

Top 10 Must eat Foods in Seoul 7 Topokki (Stir-fried Rice Cake) Topokki is Korea’s representative street food, and carts selling the snack can be found throughout the streets of Seoul. The original topokki was made of stir-fried garaetteok (cylindrical rice cakes) and beef in soy sauce, and was served in the royal palace. After the Korean War soy sauce was substituted with chili paste, creating the topokki Koreans enjoy today. Most topokki vendors also sell eomuk (fish cakes), sundae (korean sausage) and twigim (fritters), which are also recommended 8 Kimchi Although kimchi, Korea’s signature dish, can be found almost everywhere in the world, the most authentic varieties are surely still in Korea. Kimchi is a must in a Korean meal, so much so that no restaurant in Korea will charge extra for it. There are over 200 variations of kimchi today, with both regional and seasonal variations determining which ingredients will be used. The dish is made by mixing together Korean cabbage, radish, pumpkin, onion, and other vegetables with chili powder, crushed garlic and salted seafood, which is then left to ferment. The measure of well-made kimchi is the crispness of the cabbage leaves and its taste. 9 Makgeolli (Traditional Korean Rice Liquor) Makgeolli is a traditional malt liquor, and when strained to a refined clear liquor becomes cheongju (literally ‘clear liquor’), or Korean sake. Makgeolli made for export needs to be sterilized, however as the process destroys amino acids and bacteria actually considered good for one’s health, the reader is advised to try the original, unsterilized makgeolli during their time in Seoul. The difference in taste will be apparent. This traditional drink – extremely popular in recent years – goes well with most Korean foods, but it goes especially well with kimchi or pajeon (green onion pancake). 1 0 Patbingsu (Shaved Ice with Sweetened Red Beans and Other Toppings) Patbingsu is a life-saver on a hot and steamy summer day. This enticing dessert was originally made with shaved ice and a topping of red beans, rice cake and milk, though today’s toppings also include ice cream, powdered grains, fruits, jellies, and other ingredients. The essence of patbingsu is the quality of the ice (including the water used to make the ice), followed by the quality and sweetness of the red beans and also the chewiness of the rice cake. Koreans usually mix all the ingredients together before eating it, but this makes the delicate ice flakes melt faster. Therefore, it is better to enjoy it unmixed, one scoop at a time. ⓒKorea Tourism Organization 022 ⓒKorea Tourism Organization ⓒKorea Tourism Organization 023

Must visit Food Alleys in Seoul 1 Gwangjang Market Korean Pancake Alley A traditional market more than 100 years old, Gwangjang Market is the place to go for quick eats. The more popular treats are the finger-sized gimbap (Korean rolls) flavored with a unique wasabi dip, beef tartare, and bindaetteok (mung bean pancake). The mung beans used for the pancake are ground the traditional way (using a millstone), then kimchi and various other ingredients are added and cooked on an oiled iron grill. Both bindaetteok and gogijeon, a meat pancake, are popular favorites. Mung Bean Pancake 4,000–5,000; Meat Pancake 2,000 5-ga Stn., Line 1 (inside Gwangjang Market) 5-min walk from Exit 7 of Jongno 2 Sindang-dong Topokki Alley Whether it is day or night, this topokki alley is always crowded. Here, topokki is cooked directly at your table in a large pan filled with rice cakes, fish cakes, fried dumplings, hardboiled eggs, ramen noodles, jjolmyeon noodles and various vegetables. Each restaurant has its own special sauce, so no two venues are the same. Generally however, the topokki of this area is sweeter than it is spicy. After you’ve eaten all the rice cake, you can mix rice and crushed laver seaweed in the remaining sauce. As most of the restaurants here are open 24 hours a day, it’s a great place for a late-night snack. The topokki alley is located near the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park. Topokki 11,000 024 5-min walk from Exit 7 of Sindang Stn., Line 2 or 6 025

Top 10 Must visit Food Alleys in Seoul 3 Ojang-dong Hamheung-style Chilled Buckwheat Noodles Alley When the Korean War ended in 1953, many from the North took refuge across the border, eventually settling down in Ojang-dong, a neighborhood in Central Seoul. Whenever they missed their hometown, the older generation in Ojang-dong would eat Hamheung naengmyeon. Naengmyeon, a soup of cold, chewy noodles made from sweet potato, becomes Hamheung naengmyeon with the addition of sweet and spicy gochujang (chili paste). You can offset the spiciness with a cup of beef broth. The dish is a particular favorite in the summer. Chilled Buckwheat Noodles with Raw Fish 8,000 20-min walk from Exit 6 of Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Stn., Line 2, 4 or 5 4 Namdaemun Market Noodle Soup Alley and Cutlassfish Alley The eateries inside Namdaemun Market are not only popular among shoppers, but also with nearby office workers. Especially popular are the noodle soup with oysters (kalguksu), and fresh cutlassfish braised with radish in a spicy sauce (galchi jorim). The serving size and taste of the food in the market has remained the same for many years. Noodle Soup 4,500; Braised Cutlassfish 7,000 Hoehyeon (Namdaemun Market) Stn., Line 4 026 5-min walk from Exit 5 of ⓒKorea Tourism Organization 5 Jangchung-dong Pigs’ Trotters Alley This is where jokbal, or steamed pigs’ trotters originated from. After being boiled in soy sauce, ginger and garlic for a long period of time, the meat and skin of the pigs’ trotters become chewy and tender. It can be dipped in saeujeot (salted shrimp), or eaten with makguksu, a spicy cold noodle dish that comes with jokbal. Jokbal is known to be a collagen rich food good for the skin. Steamed Pigs’ trotters 35,000 (medium) 6 5-min walk from Exit 3 of Dongguk Univ. Stn., Line 3 Mapo Marinated Beef & Pork Rib Alley When dinner time arrives in Mapo, the smell of barbecued pork and beef envelops the district. Although marinated beef is the main menu item, there are also many other beef and pork dishes to tickle the palates of all, including the popular favorite, sweet and tender grilled pork ribs. For an even meatier taste, try hangjeongsal (pork neck) or moksal (pork neck bone meat). Pork Spareribs 12,000; Marinated Beef 41,000 2-min walk from Exit 1 of Mapo Stn., Line 5 027

Top 10 Must visit Food Alleys in Seoul 7 Sillim-dong Sundae Town Sundae Town, or Korean Sausage Town, is a 4-story building of about 30 restaurants. No matter how cold or hot, come rain or snow, Sundae Town is always packed with people. Most restaurants are open until 1am and some are open 24 hours a day. Korean sausage is very similar to the German blutwurst in form and ingredients. Restaurants here also serve sundae sautéed with vegetables. This sweet and spicy dish will make you come back for more. Stir-fried Korean Sausage & Tripe 14,000; White Sundae 14,000 3-min walk from Exit 3 of Sillim Stn., Line 2 8 Kyunghee University Green Onion Pancake Alley Filled with many traditional pubs serving traditional liquors, this is an especially good area to experience the drinking culture of Korean university students. Of particular note are the eight pajeon (green onion pancake) restaurants lining both sides of the main street. Haemul pajeon, or seafood and green onion pancake, is the the most popular accompaniment to liquors such as makgeolli or dongdongju. These pancakes, which are dipped in a special onion sauce, are very filling and easy on the wallet. In Korea, pajeon is a favorite on rainy days. Seafood Pancake 7,000; Assorted Pancakes 8,000 9 Heukseok-dong Pork Rib Alley Another good place to experience university culture, where diners sit around a barbecue grill while passing around shots of alcohol. The seven restaurants scattered along the alley serve large portions at low prices. The chief dish is pork back-bone, marinated in a special sauce and grilled over a charcoal fire. The alley, over 40 years old, frequently draws old alumni who come to remember their student days. Premium Pork Spareribs 9,000; Pork Spareribs 7,000 10-min walk from Exit 4 of Heukseok (Chung-Ang Univ.) Stn., Line 9 10 Eungam-dong Gamja Soup Alley Gamjatang (pork back bone soup), is one of the nation’s most popular dishes. It contains gamja, or pork back bone as its main ingredient along with potatoes, dried napa cabbage leaves, and various medicinal herbs, which are carefully boiled for about 5 hours. The restaurants at Eungam-dong Gamja Soup Alley are open 24 hours a day, allowing you to enjoy gamjatang whenever you feel like it. Highlyrecommended on cold winter days. Pork Bone Stew 22,000 (for 2) 10-min walk from Exit 2 of Saejeol (Sinsa) Stn., Line 6 5-min walk from Exit 1 of Hoegi Stn., Line 1 028 029

ul eo S My soul food The Hangang (River) runs across Seoul and divides the capital city into Gangnam, literally ‘south of the river’, and Gangbuk, or ‘north of the river’. The traditional Gangbuk region shares its history with that of the Joseon Dynasty – the nation’s final dynastic period – stretching back over 600 years, while the modern Gangnam region is a much newer addition to 030 Seoul and filled with commercial skyscrapers and the latest trends. All across Seoul however, you will find filling and great-tasting food at restaurants in its many unique alleyways. 031

City Hall·Insa-dong· Dongdaemun Areas The City Hall·Insa-dong·Dongdaemun Areas is a fine blend of old and new with ancient alleyways separating modern high-rises and a wealth of historic eateries just waiting to be discovered. Regulars keep coming back to these hidden gems with the knowledge that the flavors on offer are the same as those enjoyed by their ancestors, showcasing the true timelessness of authentic, down-to-earth Korean cuisine. Don’t hesitate to try any of the small, crumbling restaurants you find. Order what everyone else is having and discover Gangbuk. Streets and Alleys that Preserve the History and Traditions of Seoul 1 [1B] [1A] [1B] [1B] [2B] [1B] [2B] [2B] [1C] [1A] [2B] [2C] [1C] [2B] 1 Gyeongbokgung (Palace) [1B] 2 Gwanghwamun Square [1B] [1B] 3 Sejong Center for the Performing Arts [2B] [1B] 15 Bosingak (Belfry) 25 8 steps 26 Dal 27 The Restaurant 28 Benigni 29 Myeongdong Tonkatsu 30 Din Tai Fung 31 Songwon [1A] 16 17 18 19 20 21 [3C] [2C] [1C] [2C] [2C] [1B] [1B] [1B] [2C] [1C] [1C] [1B] Cheonggye Plaza Deoksugung (Palace) [1B] [1B] Seoul Plaza Chongdong Theater [1B] Seoul Museum of Art [1B] Cheonggyecheon (Stream) [2B] Jongmyo (Royal Shrine) [2B] [2B] Tapgol Park [2B] Insa-dong Street Unhyeongung (Palace) [2B] [1B] Jogyesa (Temple) [2B] Samcheong-dong Street [1A] Bukchon Hanok Village [2A] Changdeokgung (Palace) [2A] [2A] Samcheonggak [2B] Tteok Museum Myeong-dong Street [2C] [2C] 22 Myeongdong Catholic Cathedral 23 Myeong-dong Theater [2B] [1B] [3B] Major Hotels 1 Aventree Hotel 2 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul [2B] [2C] [1B] Best Western 3 New Seoul [2B] 4 Best Western Premier Hotel Kukdo 5 6 7 8 9 Center Mark Hotel [2B] [2B] Central Hotel Dong Hwa Kim’s Hotel [1A] Dongdaemun Hotel [3B] Eastgate Tower Hotel [2B] 10 Fraser Place Central Seoul [1C] 11 Fraser Suites Seoul [2B] 12 Grand Ambassdor Seoul [2C] 13 14 15 16 17 [2B] Hotel Acacia Hotel Astoria Hotel Crown Insadong Hotel PJ Ibis Ambassdor Myeongdong 18 Lotte Hotel Seoul [2B] Seongbuk-gu Lin e4 [2B] Metro Hotel Millennium Seoul Hilton [1C] [1B] New Kukje Hotel [2C] Pacific Hotel [2C] President Hotel [2C] Savoy Hotel Gwanghwamun House [2C] Seoul Prince Hotel [2C] [1C] Seoul Rex Hotel Seoul Royal Hotel [1B] [2B] Sutton Hotel [1B] The Plaza [3C] The Silla Seoul The Westin Chosun [1B] Seoul Sungshin Women's Univ. (Donam) 8 5 16 17 6 3 Hansung Univ. (Samseongyo) 4 Jongno-gu 25 4 A Bomun 18 Hyehwa 27 1 11 Changsin 26 24 Dongdaemun-gu Anguk 13 20 10 Gyeongbokgung 23 2 12 e3 (Government 2 Lin 1 1 14 Complex Seoul) Gwanghwamun 14 9 1 Line 3 (Sejong Center for the 1 2 11 5 Performing Arts) 5 Dongmyo 4 Jongno 5-ga 11 3 1 10 Jongno 3-ga (Tapgol Park) 8 28 Jonggak Dongdaemun 8 4 7 2 15 Cheonggyecheon (Stream) 9 6 29 3 6 28 Euljiro 4-ga 21 12 17 7 Euljiro 1-ga 13 6 4 5 Seodaemun Dongdaemun History 18 9 Euljiro 3-ga Line2 & Culture Park 19 13 23 8 City Hall 30 32 5 Sindang 16 16 29 17 6 22 21 21 31 18 10 15 14 30 24 19 2 25 Chungmuro Line 7 20 15 22 Cheonggu 12 23 Myeongdong 3 Dongguk Univ. 22 27 26 B Hoehyeon (Namdaemun Market) [2C] [2B] Seoul Station [1B] Jung-gu e5 Lin 23 Dori King 24 Dugahun [2B] 5 Lotte Town 6 Migliore Recommended Tourist Attractions [1B] International Cuisines 032 [1B] [1B] 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 17 18 19 20 21 22 [1A] 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 1000m [1A] [2B] Major Hotels 1 Kyobo Book Centre [1B] [1B] Dongwha 2 Duty Free Shop [1C] 3 Namdaemun Underground Shopping Center 4 Jewelry Wholesale [2B] Market 500 [1A] Shopping [2B] Line 6 [2B] Teas & Desserts 1 Twinkle Twinkle 2 Haap 3 Seoulseo Duljjaero Jalhaneun Jip 4 Cha ma si neun Ddeul 5 Beautiful Tea Museum 6 O’sulloc 7 Payard 8 Club Espresso Lin e1 [2B] 0 16 Balwoo Gongyang Min’s Club Gwanghwamun House Darakjeong Nunnamujip Yongsusan Ujeong Octopus Congdu Doore Seorin Octopus Tosokchon Nampo Myeonok Hadonggwan Myeongdong Kyoja Jinju Hoegwan Ojang-dong Hamheung Naengmyeon Yangmiok Pyeongyang Myeonok Gogung Nutrition Chicken Jingogae Korea House 3 19 31 20 C Yaksu Namsan (Mountain) [1B] Line4 Korean Restaurants 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 2 7 Yongsan-gu 2 033

City Hall· Insa-dong· Dongdaemun Areas 1 Balwoo Gongyang 발우공양 MAP 2B 5 This restaurant specializes in temple food, made up of allnatural ingredients to improve both body and soul. The natural flavors and colors of the ingredients create a work of art on every table. This is a must visit restaurant for vegetarians. Nunnamujip 눈나무집 MAP 1A 18 Paramitas Table 27,500; 12 Dharmacakras Table 39,600; 15 Enlightenments Table 58,300 11:40–13:20, 13:30–15:00 & 18:00–20:50 (Chuseok & Seollal holidays) English, Japanese English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 6 of Anguk Stn., Line 3 02-2031-2081 2 Min’s Club 민가다헌 MAP 2B This is a quiet and peaceful restaurant set within a traditional Korean house. Min’s Club serves both Western and Korean cuisine, and you can also enjoy wine or tea. The main menu item here is the cold kimchi noodles, which go well with the sweet beef rib patties or mung bean pancakes on offer. The clean and simple interior, moderate price range and delicious food keep the customers coming back for more. Cold Kimchi Noodles 5,000; Grilled Beef Rib Patties 8,000; Mung Bean Pancake 8,000 11:00–21:30 (day before and day of Chuseok & Seollal) 5-min walk from the Samcheong-dong Community Service Center 02-739-6742 6 This traditional Korean cuisine restaurant has remained in the same place for over 30 years. Most of the dishes are seafood based and taste as rich and profound as its history. There are many branches throughout Seoul, but the venue featured has the best service and interior. Yongsusan 용수산 MAP 1A Lunch Course 29,700–61,500; Dinner Course 70,000–99,000 12:00–14:30 & 18:00–23:00 (Chuseok & Seollal holidays) English, Japanese, Chinese English 10-min walk from Exit 5 of Anguk Stn., Line 3 02-733-2966 Lunch Course 46,000–165,000 12:00–15:00 & 18:00– 22:00 (day before and day of Chuseok & Seollal) English, Japanese, Chinese English, Japanese 2–3 min walk from the Samcheong-dong Community Service Center 02-739-5599 3 Gwanghwamun House 광화문집 MAP 1B 7 Ujeong Octopus 우정낙지 MAP 1B This cozy and very welcoming restaurant is well-known for its kimchi stew. The ripe kimchi and pork neck stew is spicy, yet soothing and very filling. The egg rolls are an ideal accompaniment to this dish. If you like spicy foods, this is the place for you. The stir-fried octopus here is some of the spiciest you’ll find in Seoul. To help fan the flames, the octopus is served with bean sprouts and clam soup. At night, office workers fill the restaurant to unwind after a hard day’s work. Kimchi Stew with Pork 7,000; Egg Roll 5,000 09:00–22:00 (some Sundays, Chuseok & Seollal day) 2–3 min walk from Exit 8 of Gwanghwamun (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts) Stn., Line 5 02-739-7737 Stir-fried Octopus 16,000; Clam Soup 10,000 10:00–22:30 Chinese 5-min walk from Exit 8 of Gwanghwamun (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts) Stn., Line 5 02-720-7991 4 Darakjeong 다락정 MAP 1A A specialty of this restaurant is the dumpling casserole boiled in soybean broth with a lot of seafood. Other popular menu items include dumpling soup, Korean pancakes and bulgogi. Both Korean and Western tables are available. Tojang Dumpling Casserole 10,000; Bulgogi 15,000 11:00–21:30 (day before and day of Chuseok & Seollal) 5-min walk from the Samcheongdong Community Service Center 02-725-1697 034 8 Congdu 콩두 MAP 1B This place serves various Korean dishes made of tofu such as tofu steak and tofu tiramisu. The menu only has course meals and reservations are required. It is located inside the Seoul History Museum. Lunch Course 30,800–57,200; Dinner Course 49,500–110,000 11:30–14:00 & 17:30–22:00 English English 10-min walk from Exit 7 of Gwanghwamun (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts) Stn., Line 5 02-722-7002 035

City Hall· Insa-dong· Dongdaemun Areas 9 This is a traditional Korean cuisine restaurant in Insa-dong. The side dishes vary each day, and the hearty rich soybean soup is a must-try. The simple interior and great tasting food have proven popular with tourists. Doore 두레 MAP 2B 13 Hadonggwan 하동관 MAP 2B Korean Lunch Set Menu 27,500, 38,500 & 60,500 12:00–15:00 & 18:00–22:00 (Chuseok & Seollal holidays) English, Japanese English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 5 of Jongno 3-ga (Tapgol Park) Stn., Line 1, 3 or 5 02-732-2919 10 Seorin Octopus For over 80 years, Hadonggwan has been serving gomtang, or ‘beef bone soup’, at premium quality. Gomtang is considered a representative dish of the common people, and Hadonggwan pays special attention to the taste of the broth. The kimchi served with the soup is delicious, and some like to use it to flavor their soup. Beef Bone Soup 10,000; Boiled Pork Slices 50,000 07:00–16:30 (1st and 3rd Sundays of every month) JapaEnglish, Japanese, Chinese 5-min walk nese, Chinese from Exit 5 of Euljiro 1-ga Stn., Line 2 02-776-5656 14 Myeongdong Kyoja 명동교자 MAP 2C 서린낙지 MAP 1B Those who like spicy foods should definitely try out this place. If the stir-fried octopus looks too spicy, try the Bacon Sausage, cooked on a hot plate with octopus broth. The jeon, egg roll, and clam soup are also recommended for countering the spiciness. This is a representative restaurant of Myeong-dong with over 50 years of history. Its main menu item is the noodle soup, which is best with the spicy kimchi that comes served with the noodles. You can also add an order of dumplings, and most importantly, the rice and noodles are bottomless. Stir-fried Octopus 17,000; Bacon Sausage 15,000 11:30–23:00 (day before and day of Chuseok & Seollal) 5-min walk from Exit 4 of Gwanghwamun 02-735-0670 (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts) Stn., Line 5 Noodle Soup 8,000; Dumplings 8,000 10:30–21:30 (Chuseok & Seollal day) Japanese English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 8 of Myeong-dong Stn., Line 4 02-776-5348 11 Tosokchon 토속촌 MAP 1B 15 Jinju Hoegwan 진주회관 MAP 1C This popular ginseng chicken soup restaurant serves up a broth made of ground grains that is especially healthy and tasty. Expect to wait in line during lunch or dinner times. This place is famous for its noodles in cold soybean soup (kongguksu), one of Korea’s favorite summer meals. The dough for the noodles here is also noteworthy for containing assorted nuts and potato starch. Thick and savory kongguksu is popular in the summer while winter is the season for kimchi fried-rice. Expect to wait for a table during peak hours. Ginseng Chicken Soup 15,000 10:00– 22:00 English, Chinese English 5-min walk from Exit 2 of Gyeongbokgung (Govern02ment Complex Seoul) Stn., Line 3 737-7444 12 Nampo Myeonok 남포면옥 MAP 1B Nampo Myeonok has been a family business for 2 generations and is a representative eobokjaengban restaurant. The word refers to the process of cooking by arranging assorted meats and vegetables in a copper casserole with a beef broth. Noodles or dumplings can also be added to the casserole. The interior décor is also quite distinctive. Eobokjaengban 58,000 (for 3); Chilled Buckwheat Noodles 9,000 Weekdays: 11:30–22:30; Weekends & holidays: 11:30–21:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day) Chinese English, Japanese 2–3 min walk from Exit 2 of Euljiro 1-ga Stn., Line 2 02-777-2269 036 Noodles in Cold Black Soybean Soup 9,500; Kimchi Fried Rice 7,000 10:00– 22:00 (Chuseok & Seollal holidays) English, Japanese, Chinese English, Japanese, Chinese 2–3 min walk from Exit 9 of City Hall Stn., Line 1 or 2 02-753-5388 16 Ojang-dong Hamheung Naengmyeon 오장동 함흥냉면 MAP 2B Thin chewy buckwheat noodles in a thick beef broth, and spicy seasoned buckwheat noodles. Especially popular is the chilled buckwheat noodles (naengmyeon) with raw skate. Naengmyeon, Naengmyeon with raw fish, Spicy Naengmeon 8,000 each, Raw Skate 10,000 (for 2) 11:00– 21:30 (1st & 3rd Tuesday every month, Chuseok & Seollal holidays) Japanese, Chinese Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 8 of Euljiro 4-ga Stn., Line 2 or 5 02-22679500 037

City Hall· Insa-dong· Dongdaemun Areas 17 Yangmiok 양미옥 MAP 2B 21 Yangmiok serves top quality lamb and tripe, and the grilled seasoned tripe is especially recommended. In the winter, visitors should also consider trying the casserole. Jingogae 진고개 MAP 2C Premium Tripe 29,000; Beef Tripe 27,000 11:00–22:00 (Chuseok & English, Japanese 1–2 Seollal day) min walk from Exit 6 of Euljiro 3-ga Stn., Line 3 02-2275-8837 Marinated Crab Set 16,000; Braised Ribs 17,000; Bulgogi 19,000 Weekdays: 11:30–21:30; Weekends: 11:30–21:00 (1st, 3rd & 5th Sunday each month, Chuseok & Seollal day and day 2–3 min walk from after) Japanese English, Japanese Exit 6 of Chungmuro Stn., Line 3 or 4 02-2266-5689 18 Pyeongyang Myeonok 평양면옥 MAP 3C 22 This is a 3rd generation naengmyeon restaurant. The restaurant also has Eobokjaengban, beef slices served in a copper dish. 한국의 집 Naengmyeon 10,000; Eobokjaengban 50,000 (for 2) 11:00–21:30 (day before and day of Chuseok & Seollal) English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 5 of Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Stn., Line 2, 4 or 5 02-2267-7784 This place is popular for its braised beef ribs and marinated crabs. Highly-recommended are the marinated tender ribs and the crabs marinated in a sweet and spicy sauce. There are also various casseroles. Korea House MAP 2C An old Korean style house that serves as a restaurant where you can try Korean royal court cuisine. This restaurant makes its own kimchi and condiments, which are preserved in large earthen pots called jangdok. Korea House also stages traditional performances and arranges traditional weddings. Korean Royal Cuisine 68,200–250,000 12:00–14:00, 17:00–18:30 & 19:00–20:30 English, Japanese, Chinese English, Japanese 3-min walk from Exit 3 of Chungmuro Stn., Line 3 or 4 02-2266-9101 19 Gogung 고궁 MAP 2C For over 30 years, Gogung has been serving its bibimbap in a traditional copper bowl. Toppings include seasoned vegetables, nuts, tartare and more. Other menu items such as pancakes, bulgogi and makgeolli cocktails are also served. Jeonju-style Bibimbap 11,000; Hot Pot Bibimbap 11,000; Tartare Bibimbap 15,000 09:00–22:00 (day before and day of Chuseok & Seollal) English, Japanese, Chinese English, 3-min walk from Exit 9 of Myeong-dong Japanese, Chinese Stn., Line 4 02-776-3211 20 Nutrition Chicken 영양센타 MAP 1C 038 This place is the home of Korean-style rotisserie chicken. The outside of the chicken is crispy while the inside is moist and tender. Although good as a lunch or dinner, the chicken is also good as a side menu item for beer. Rotisserie Chicken 13,500 (for 2); Chicken Ginseng Soup 13,500 10:30–22:30 (Chuseok & Seollal day) English, Japanese, Chinese English, Japanese, Chinese 3-min walk from Exit 5 of Myeong-dong Stn., Line 4 02-776-2015 23 Dori King (Jogeum) 조금 MAP 2B This place is popular for its Japanese style stone pot rice and udon noodles. There are three varieties of stone pot rice, of which the Jogeum Stone Pot Rice with seafood is the most popular. Dori King also has a clean Japanese style interior. Jogeum Hot Pot Rice with Abalone 28,000; Jogeum Hot Pot Rice 15,000; Hot Pot Rice with Vegetables 15,000 11:00–22:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day) English, Japanese, Chinese English, Japanese 3-min walk from Exit 6 of Anguk Stn., Line 3 02-734-0783 039

City Hall· Insa-dong· Dongdaemun Areas 24 Dugahun 두가헌 MAP 1B 28 Benigni 베니니 MAP 1B This French cuisine restaurant is set in a traditional Korean house. It is located in the backyard of Gallery Hyundai, so you can soak in the culture afterwards. Especially popular at Dugahun is the steak. This place serves great pasta and steak. The fresh pasta spaghetti and the premium grilled steak are exceptionally good, and the restaurant also has a creditable wine list. Being located inside Olleh Square in Gwanghwamun, there’s plenty to see and do afterwards. Steak 50,000–52,000 12:00–14:30 & 18:00–22:00 *Tea Time: 14:30–16:00; Wine Bar: 18:00–24:00 English English 10-walk from Exit 3 of Anguk Stn., Line 3 02-3210-2100 Beef Tenderloin Steak 50,000; Pasta 21,000–25,000 11:30– 15:00 & 17:30–22:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day) English English, 10-min walk from Exit 1 of Gwanghwamun (Sejong Italian Center for the Performing Arts) Stn., Line 5 02-3210-3352 25 8 steps 8스텝스 MAP 1A 8 steps is located in a traditional Korean house that was renovated and made into a restaurant with a Mediterranean-style interior. Located on Samcheong-dong Street, 8 Steps serves both Italian and French cuisines. 29 Myeongdong Tonkatsu 명동돈가스 MAP 2C Pasta 18,000–19,000; Lunch Course 29,000; Dinner 12:00–14:30 & 18:00–21:15 *Wine Bar: Course 70,000 18:00–22:30 English, Japanese English 5-min walk from the Samcheong-dong Community Service Center 02-738-5838 26 Dal 달 MAP 1B 30 Located inside a gallery, Dal offers fine Indian cuisine prepared by chefs from the homeland. Popular Indian dishes such as Tandoori chicken and curry have been slightly modified to fit the Korean palate. The décor of the restaurant will make you feel as if you were in India. 딘타이펑 Din Tai Fung MAP 1C 더레스토랑 MAP 1B This Japanese-style French restaurant is well known for its food and the interior décor. It also offers a great view of Gyeongbokgung (Palace) and has a dessert café. Lunch Course 49,500–99,000; Dinner Course 77,000–143,000 12:00–15:00 & 18:00–22:00 (day before and day of Chuseok & Seollal) English, Japanese English 15-min walk from Exit 1 of Anguk Stn., Line 3 02-735-8441 040 Pork Cutlet 11,000; Cordon Bleu 14,000 Mon.–Sat.: 11:00–21:30; Sun. & national holidays: 11:00–21:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day and day after) English English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 6 of Euljiro 1-ga Stn., Line 2 02-776-5300 Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese restaurant chain, and this is the first branch to open in Korea. Their main menu item is xiaolongbao (cage-steamed buns), but you can also try various other Taiwanese dishes. Best visited on weekdays due to large crowds on Saturdays and Sundays. Leek and Shrimp xiaoongbao 13,200; Sichuan-style 11:00–22:00 English, Seafood Noodle Soup 14,000 English, Chinese 5-min walk from Japanese, Chinese Exit 5 of Myeong-dong Stn., Line 4 02-771-2778 Lamb Curry 20,000; Tandoori Chicken 22.000 12:00–15:00 & 18:00–22:00 (New Year’s day, Chuseok & Seollal day) English, Indian English 10-min walk from Exit 1 of Anguk Stn., Line 3 02-736-4627 27 The Restaurant This was the first restaurant to introduce the famous fat Japanese-style pork cutlets to Korea. With a 30year history of excellence, Myeongdong Tonkatsu’s cordon bleu is the most popular menu item. 31 Songwon 송원 MAP 1C This is a Japanese-style puffer fish restaurant, and its signature dish is made by boiling aged puffer fish with various types of mushrooms and Korean cabbage. You can also try various other puffer fish dishes. Puffer Fish Stew 22,000; Puffer Fish Set Menu 35,000 11:00–14:00 & 17:00–21:30 (Sundays, Chuseok & Seollal holidays) English, Japanese English 5-min walk of Exit 7 of City Hall Stn., Line 1 or 2 02-755-3979 041

Hongik University· Yeouido Areas These two areas are centered on the Hangang (River), a landmark of Seoul. Night and day, each has its own disparate charm. Both filled with life well into the night, one is a center of youth culture, the other a center of hard-working office workers. The hottest clubs and cultural facilities of Seoul are located in the Hongik University area, while the heart of Korean politics, finance, and corporate entertainment is to be found in Yeouido. Despite their differences, both districts share the Hangang (River) as their border, and both are awash with energy. Together, they showcase Seoul’s vibrant and multi-layered character. World Cup Stadium (Seongsan) 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 Bulia Hakata Bunko Gami Udon The Gabriel Hongdae Donburi Menya Sandaime Alla Torre Castle Praha Teppen Hanseongmungo Ha Ha Dami Basak Walking On The Cloud [2A] [2B] [2A] [2A] [2A] [2A] [2A] [2A] [2A] Hongdae Street Sangsu-dong Cafe Street [2B] Hongdae Club Street [2A] Seoul World Cup Stadium [1A] [1B] Seonyudo Park [2B] Bamseom (Islet) [1B] National Assembly [2C] Yeouido Park [3C] 63City Yeouido Floating Stage [2B] 1 Best Western Premier [3B] Seoul Garden Hotel [2C] [1C] 4 Hotel Dodo [2A] 5 Hotel Seokyo 6 Lotte City Hotel Mapo [3B] 5 [2C] [1C] 8 R Hotel 9 The Lexington Hotel [2B] [2C] 10 Yoido Hotel [2C] [3C] Line Gyeongui Ewha Womans Univ. 3 1 4 Lin e9 Sinchon Seogang Daeheung (Sogang Univ.) Gwangheungchang (Seogang) 6 1 5 6 10 7 9 7 5 e1 Lin 4 7 4 8 o egy oda ) nhy ridge Wo (B Yeouinaru 8 Yeongdeungpo Market Mapo 10 National Assembly Yeongdeungpo-gu B 1 6 gyo dae e) apo ridg M (B Dangsan 3 6 A Gongdeok Hangang (River) Yeongdeungpo-gu Office 042 3 Sangsu 2 [1B] [2C] 19 Hapjeong 3 Courtyard by Marriott [1C] Seoul Times Square 7 Marriott Executive Apartments Seoul 12 5 1 16 13 14 2 3 17 18 2 1 2 11 3 [2B] [2A] Hongik Univ. 5 15 Major Hotels 2 Conrad Seoul Sinchon 10 Lin e2 10 11 12 13 14 15 Mapo-gu Seo gan (Brid gdaeg ge) yo 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 International Cuisines 4 Yan gh (Br wada idg eg e) yo [2C] Seodaemun-gu 20 Mapo-gu Office 1000m Recommended Tourist Attractions [2C] [2A] Seogyo Market Hongdae Free Market [2A] [1A] Mecenatpolis [2C] IFC Mall Yeongdeungpo Market [1C] [1C] Times Square Mangwon [3B] [2C] Shopping 1 2 3 4 5 6 500 6 Mapo Original Marinated Beef 7 Yangmani 8 Jushinjong 9 Jinjujip [2B] Snob [2B] café aA Mobssie Chocolate Cake [2A] [2A] Cacao Boom [2A] Paul & Paulina [3C] Eric Kayser e6 Lin [2B] [2A] 3 Taste of the Moon (Wolhyang) 4 Yeonnam Sundae Soup [2A] [3B] 5 Mapo-ok Teas & Desserts 1 2 3 4 5 6 3 0 [3B] 2 Gajwa EX A'R Korean Restaurants 1 Mapo Jinjja Wonjo Choedaepo 2 Yogi 1 2 Yeouido 9 21 8 22 23 6 9 Ha (Ra nga ilro ngc ad he Bri olgy dg o e) 4 Line 5 The Hot & The New: Two Districts by the Hangang (River) C Nodeulseom Saetgang Singil Yeongdeungpo Noryangjin Daebang 043

Hongik University· Yeouido Areas 1 Mapo Jinjja Wonjo Choedaepo 마포진짜원조최대포 MAP 3B This is a pork restaurant with 60 years of history and tradition, most notable in the order by which the set course should be eaten: you start with sweet marinated pork ribs, then salt grilled pork, and finally finish with chewy pig skin. The beverage of the house is soju. 5 This is an ox bone soup restaurant with a 60year history and tradition. The ox bone soup here is very meaty and is served with many different kinds of kimchi, including cabbage kimchi, radish kimchi and green onion kimchi. Mapo-ok 마포옥 MAP 3B Ox Bone Soup with Brisket 11,000 07:00– 22:00 English, Japanese, Chinese 5-min walk from Exit 1 of Mapo Stn., Line 5 02-716-6661 Pork Rib 12,000; Salt Grill 13,000; Pig Skin 7,000 11:00–24:00 Japanese English, Japanese, Chinese 1–2 min walk from Exit 5 of Gongdeok Stn., Line 5, 6 and A'REX 02-719-9292 2 Yogi 요기 MAP 2B This is a representative Korean fast food restaurant of the Hongik University area. The cold kimchi noodles and fried flat dumplings in particular are worthy of note. Two people can enjoy a filling meal here for under 10,000 won. Noodles 4,500–5,500; Flat dumplings 3,000 (10) 11:30–23:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day) EngJapanese 2–3 min walk from lish, Japanese Exit 1 of Sangsu Stn., Line 6 02-3143-4248 3 Taste of the Moon (Wolhyang) 월향 MAP 2A Mapo Original Marinated Beef 마포원조주물럭집 MAP 3B This grill house has a long 40-year history and serves tender beef marinated and grilled over charcoal. The sweet and juicy beef keeps customers coming back for more. Premium Marinated Beef 35,000; Naengmyeon 8,000 11:00–22:30 (New Year’s day, Chuseok & Seollal day) English, Japanese English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 1 of Mapo Stn., Line 5 02-718-3001 7 This is a modern and young makgeolli house. It brews its own makgeolli so the drinks are fresh and assorted. Its menu includes many dishes that go well with makgeolli, dishes that you won’t be able to find anywhere else. Yangmani 양마니 MAP 2C Mugeunji Sweet & Sour Pork 17,000; White Kimchi & Tofu Rolls 19,000; Original Wolhyang Makgeolli 6,000 (500ml) Mon.–Wed.: 12:00–02:00; Thu.–Sat.: 12:00–04:00; Sun.: 12:00–01:00 English, Japanese English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 7 of Hongik Univ. Stn., Line 2 and A'REX 02-332-9202 4 Yeonnam Sundae Soup 연남순대국 MAP 2A This is a favorite among taxi drivers, known to be very picky eaters. The most popular dishes are the sundae soup, or Korean sausage soup, and the plate of sundae. Although this ordinary looking restaurant may not seem to blend in with the hip and trendy atmosphere of the area, its coziness welcomes big crowds. Sundae Soup 7,000; Assorted Sunday 12,000 (for 2) 07:00– 23:00 10-min walk from Exit 3 of Hongik Univ. Stn., Line 2 and A'REX 02-332-5268 044 6 8 Jushinjong 주신정 MAP 2C Here, you’ll find the freshest and finest yang, or tripe, in Seoul. The dish is marinated in a special sauce for 24 hours and then grilled. Other cuts are also available. Premium Tripe 27,000; Premium Sirloin 45,000 Weekdays: 11:30–22:00; Weekends: 11:30–21:30 English, Japanese, Chinese English, Japanese 10-min walk from Exit 1 of National Assembly Stn., Line 9 02-784-9282 This grill house is famous for its multipurpose griddle, around the rim of which, egg roll is cooked. A wide selection of leafy vegetables is also provided for beef wraps. The great taste and service of Jushinjong has garnered a loyal clientele. Korean Set Menu 8,000 (includes bulgogi casserole); Grilled Beef 23,000–32,000; Beef Rib 29,000 10:00–22:00 Japanese, Chinese English, Japanese 10-min walk from Exit 5 of Yeouido Stn., Line 5 or 9 02-784-6662 045

Hongik University· Yeouido Areas 9 Jinjujip 진주집 MAP 2C 13 The Gabriel This place is well known for its noodles in soybean soup. Other than the rich soybean soup noodles, there is also spicy noodles and noodle soup with chicken. Jinjujip is a favorite with nearby office workers. The attention grabbling yellow exterior wall of the 2nd level, the cozy wooden interior and the cute décor makes The Gabriel is very popular with the ladies. Its menu includes pasta, pizza, and wine. Noodles in Cold Soybean Soup 9,500; Noodle Soup with Chicken 7,000; Spicy Noodles 8.000 10:00–20:00 (Sundays & national holidays) Chinese English, Japanese, Chinese 5-min walk from Exit 5 of Yeouido Stn., Line 5 or 9 02-780-6108 Meokmul Shrimp Pizza 13,000; Potato Dumplings 13,500 Tue.–Sat.: 11:00–23:00; Sun. & national holidays: 11:30–22:00 (Mondays, Chuseok & Seollal day) English English 10-min walk from Exit 3 of Hapjeong Stn., Line 2 or 6 02-332-7167 10 Bulia 불이아 MAP 2A Bulia specializes in Chinese-style hot pot made a little less spicy to suit Korean tastes. The set menu with beef, lamb and assorted vegetables is the most popular menu item. Hot Pot Bulia Set 18,500; Seafood Set 28,000 11:30–23:00 English, Chinese Chinese 1–2 min walk from Exit 1 of Hongik Univ. Stn., Line 2 and A'REX 02-335-6689 11 Hakata Bunko 하카다분코 MAP 2B The main menu item here is the tonkotsu ramen of Kyushu. The rich pork broth is the key to their ramen. The Japanese décor and greeting staff are very unique, though the long waiting times are not. 14 Hongdae Donburi 홍대돈부리 MAP 2A 15 Menya Sandaime 멘야산다이메 MAP 2A In Ramen 7,000; Cheong Ramen 7,000 11:30–14:00 & 17:00–24:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day) English, Japanese English, 2–3 min walk from Exit 2 of Japanese Sangsu Stn., Line 6 02-338-5536 12 Gami Udon 가미우동 MAP 2A The noodles at this udon restaurant are made on-site, and the broth is especially tasty. The fried chicken and udon set is very filling and recommended. The décor is modern and simple. Gake Udon 4,000; Jaru Udon 6,000; Fried Chicken Set 8,500 12:00–15:00 & 17:00–21:00 (Mondays, Chuseok & Seollal holidays) English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 9 of Hongik Univ. Stn., Line 2 and A'REX 02-322-3302 046 더가브리엘 MAP 2A This is a traditional Japanese deopbap (meat and/ or vegetables on a bed of rice) restaurant whose regular customers have praised its menu items for their authenticity. Donburi is almost always crowded, so be prepared to wait in line for a table. Katsudon 7,000; Rice with Salmon 9,500 11:00–14:30 Japanese & 16:30–21:30 (Chuseok & Seollal holidays) English, Japanese 10-min walk from Exit 1 of Sangsu Stn., Line 6 02-3141-8398 This is a traditional Japanese ramen house, which closes for the day when staff run out of ingredients. Although it specializes in tonkotsu ramen, the tsukemen ramen, whereby the noodles and broth are served separately, is also recommended. Although small in size, Menya Sandaime has a very comfortable atmosphere. Tonkotsu Ramen 7,000; Tsukemen Ramen 8,000 11:50– Until ingredients run out Japanese English, Japanese 10min walk from Exit 9 of Hongik Univ. Stn., Line 2 and A'REX 02332-4129 16 Alla Torre 알라또레 MAP 2A Alla Torre has a very international list of wines. The course menu and fresh pasta dishes are recommended. The classy and sophisticated atmosphere is second to none in the Hongik University area. Lunch Course 24,000; Dinner Course 58,000; Pasta 16,000–20,000 11:30–15:00 & 17:00–23:00 English English, Italian 5-min walk from Exit 9 of Hongik Univ. Stn., Line 2 and A'REX 02-324-0978 047

Hongik University· Yeouido Areas 17 Castle Praha 캐슬프라하 MAP 2A This restaurant was designed after the Prague Clock Tower Castle in the Czech Republic. You can try traditional Czech house beer and original goulash here. 20 Home-made Sausage 20,900; Beef Goulash 30,800 17:00–02:30; Sun.: 16:00–01:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day) from Exit 3 of Hapjeong Stn., Line 2 or 6 02-334-2181 MAP 2A Mon.–Thu.: 17:00–02:00; Fri. & Sat.: English English 10-min walk Ha Ha 하하 This is a traditional Chinese dumpling restaurant owned and operated by a Chinese immigrant. The dumplings here are very large, and fried dumplings, which are crispy on one side and soft and moist on the other side, are the most popular. Soups and cold platters are also available at a reasonable price. Steamed Dumplings 5,000; King Dumplings 1,800 (each); Stir-fried Eggplant 14,000 11:30–22:30 (2nd & 4th Tuesday of every month, one week during Chuseok & Seollal holidays) English, Japanese, Chinese Chinese 10-min walk from the Yeonnam-dong Community Service Center 02-337-0211 21 Dami 다미 MAP 2C This is a Japanese-style fish griller, serving up fresh fish such as lightly-salted mackerel, mackerel pike, salmon and rockfish – all of which go very well with a soju cocktail. The restaurant closes each day depending upon when it runs out of ingredients. Grilled Mackerel 9,000; Grilled Salmon 12,000 11:30– 14:00 & 17:00–23:00 (Chuseok & Seollal holidays) 10-min walk from Exit 5 of Yeouido Stn., Line 5 or 9 02-783-5167 18 Teppen 텟펜 MAP 2B You can try various hot plates here, such as teppanyaki and yakisoba. Though the dishes taste great, it is perhaps the kind and friendly staff that keep customers coming back for more. 22 Basak 바삭 MAP 2C Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki 13,000– 14,000 17:00–01:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day) Japanese English, Japanese 5-min walk from Exit 1 of Sangsu Stn., Line 6 02336-5578 Lunch Set 14,000; Dinner Set 20,000 11:30–14:00 & 18:00–23:00 (Sundays, national holidays) English, Japanese English 5-min walk from Exit 2 of Saetgang Stn., Line 9 02-782-2251 19 Hanseongmungo 한성문고 MAP 1B 23 Walking On The Cloud 워킹온더클라우드 MAP 3C This is a Korean-style ramen house operated by Hakata Bunko, a Kyushu-style ramen house. Thick ramen noodles are topped with chicken, pork or fish. Located inside 63City, Walking On The Cloud provides fine European dining. It offers a superb view of the Hangang (River), and Seoul. In Ramen 7,000; Seoul Ramen 10,000 12:00– 23:00 (Chuseok & Seollal day) English, Japanese English, Japanese 2–3 min walk from Exit 5 of Hapjeong Stn., Line 2 or 6 02-332-7900 048 Basak’s deep-fried course menu includes fried fish, shrimp, sesame leaf, sweet potato and more, all of which is accompanied by a fresh salad and rice with fish roe. The atmosphere is friendly and warm. Salad Bar 49,000; Weekday Lunch 62,000, 74,000 & 100,000; Dinner starting at 96,000 11:30–15:00 & 17:30–22:00 English English * Wine bar open until 01:00am on weekdays 15-min walk from Exit 4 of Yeouinaru Stn., Line 5 (inside 63City) 02789-5904 049

Itaewon· Hannam-dong Areas This area includes Itaewon and Hannam-dong, where many foreign ambassadors reside, and is where you’ll find Seoul’s only mosque. For this reason, the area is filled with numerous international restaurants operated by chefs from around the world. Instead of pondering upon what you’d like to eat, think instead about which country you’d like to visit. Yongsan also offers many art and fashion boutiques to explore. A World of Taste and Culture on Every Street 1 Teas & Desserts Korean Restaurants [2B] [3B] [2A] [2A] 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Tatsumizushi Daehangak The Bungalow La Cucina La Tavola Le Saint-Ex Moghul Between Sultan Kebab Smoky Saloon Ye’hwan O’Kitchen Jonny Dumpling Taco Chili Chili Hattori Kitchen La Bocca Macaroni Market Muntaro Western China Trevia [1C] [2B] Dongbingo Coffee Mihak Neal’s Yard The Lucy Pie Kitchen Standing Coffee Tartine May Bell Bakery Lynn’s Cupcakes Passion 5 Shopping [2C] 1 Itaewon Antique Street [2B] 2 Itaewon Shopping Center [2B] [1C] [2B] 3 Itaewon Market [2B] [2B] [3B] 4 Yongsan Electronics [1B] Shopping Mall [3B] 5 I’Park Mall [1C] [2B] [2B] 3 Recommended Tourist Attractions [2B] 1 N Seoul Tower [2A] Sookmyung Women's Univ. (Garwol) [1B] [2B] 2 Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art [3B] 3 Gyeongridan-gil 4 Itaewon Street [2B] 5 National Museum of Korea Gaya Hotel Grand Hyatt Seoul Hamilton Hotel Hotel Capital Hotel Crown Itaewon IP Boutique Hotel Namsan (Mountain) Yongsan-gu Major Hotels 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 [1B] Namyeong [1C] [2B] [2B] [2B] [2B] [2B] [2B] [3B] [2B] 7 Yongsan Park [3B] 3 [2B] Line 6 [2B] 5 18 6 [2B] Samgakji [3B] 1 Noksapyeong 4 6 The War Memorial of [1B] Korea [2B] [2C] [3B] Sinyongsan [3B] 15 8 19 2 2 9 6 24 3 14 20 21 7 22 10 11 7 9 12 4 16 Itaewon 2 3 3 6 1 13 17 6 5 8 23 B Hannam 4 e Lin ng ga n Ju [3B] [3B] [3B] 2 Hangangjin 5 Lin e4 5 4 5 7 Ichon (National Museum of Korea) Dongjakdaegyo (Bridge) 2 Seobinggo gyo odae Banp ridge) (B 1 050 A Beotigogae [3B] [2B] [2B] 4 1 1000m International Cuisines 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 500 Chadol House Ocean Restaurant Poom Seoul Hancook 3 0 1 2 3 4 2 Seoul Station C Hangang (River) 051

Itaewon· Hannam-dong Areas 1 Chadol House 차돌집 MAP 2B 2 Ocean Restaurant 바다식당 MAP 3B Chadol House grills its meat in hard wood charcoal. You can enjoy a fine glass of wine, and once you’re done with the brisket, try the soybean stew instead of the naengmyeon. 5 Tatsumizushi 타츠미즈시 MAP 1C Beef Brisket 15,000; Sirloin 19,000 11:30–22:30 English English, Japanese 2–3 min walk from Exit 1 of Noksapyeong Stn., Line 6 02-790-0789 Also called the ‘Johnson Stew,’ Ocean’s sausage stew is different from other varieties in that aside from the basic ingredients of meat and vegetables, it also c

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