Published on April 3, 2014
DIFFERENT COUNT USED IN TEXTILE Md. Robiul Hasan Ovy Daffodil International University Dhaka, Bangladesh
The yarn count expresses the thickness of the yarn, and must be known before calculating the quantity of yarns for a known length of fabric. The yarn count number indicates the length of yarn in relation to the weight. Three systems of yarn count are currently in use: the fixed weight; the fixed length and the Tex systems. The fixed weight can be used with British and American weights and systems. The fixed length system and the Tex system are based on metric weights and measures. Tex is an internationally agreed system of yarn numbering that applies to all types of yarns, regardless of the method of production.
Conversion: In normal practice is unnecessary to go through such a calculation each time a conversion is required and generally a conversion factor can be used. In the case of converting from one direct subsystem to another, one merely multiplies the know liner density by the conversion factor to get in different counts, similarly, when converting from one indirect subsystem to another, when converting from indirect to direct or vice versa then the factor must be divided by the know quantity.
Basically, two types of yarn counting system: 1. Direct system 2. Indirect system. Another system is classified as third type of count and that is “Tex”. Tex is also called Universal count. International Organization for Standardization (ISO) fixed the relationship between weight and length for Tex. The greater the weight, the thicker the yarn and Tex will be greater number. We will discuss it under Direct system.
Direct System: In this system, the count of yarn expresses the no of weight units in one length unit. Higher the count, coarser the yarn. This system is generally used for Man made fibre, jute, silk etc. Now, let’s see the how count is mathematically calculated. Let, N = The yarn number or count. W = The weight of the sample. w = The unit of weight of the system. L = The length of the sample. l = The unit of length of the system. Now, Count, N = (W×l)/(L×w)
Tex count: Tex is calculated as Weight of yarn in gm present in 1000 meter length. It is a universal system of counting the yarn. This system is therefore a direct system, simply defined and simply to use. Denier: Denier is calculated as Weight of yarn in gm present in 9000 meter length. It is basically used for man made fiber. The denier system of measurement is used on two and single filament.
Pounds per spindle: The yarn number or count in the pound per spindle system is the weight in pounds of 14400 yds of yarn. This count is used for jute. Militex: Count in militex system is the weight in kilogram of 1km of yarn. Kilotex: Count in the kilotex system is the weight in kilogram of 1km of yarn.
Properties: It is also called the direct number system' This system is based on the weight of a given length of yarn So the numbers you see refer to this weight It is a metric system which involves much simpler methods of calculation
Indirect System: In this system, the count of yarn is expresses the no of length unit in one weight unit. Here, when count is higher, then yarn will be finer. The system is usually used for cotton, worsted, metric, French, linen (wet spun) etc. Let, N = The yarn number or count. W = The weight of the sample. w = The unit of weight of the system. L = The length of the sample. l = The unit of length of the system. Now, Count, N = (L×w)/(l×W)
English count (Ne) English Count is Calculated as No. of hanks of 840 yds present in 1 lb of yarn. French count (Nf) French count is calculated as No. of hanks of 1000 meters present in ½ kg of yarn Metric count (Nm) Metric Count is calculated as No. of hanks of 1000 meters present in 1 kg of yarn. Worsted count Worsted Count is Calculated as No. of hanks of 560 yds present in 1 lb of Yarn. It is basically used for Wool.
Properties: This is based on the length of yarn that makes up a given weight The weight is fixed and the length is variable, so the numbers you see relate to length This is the original and traditional method used for calculating the thickness of a yarn The count or indirect system is very complex Each fibre, (wool, cotton, worsted, silk, etc.) uses a slightly different method of calculation To further complicate matters, some countries and locations have developed their own variations of the system
Conclusion: In all different branches of the textile industry it has been found necessary to adopt some method of numbering the different sizes of yarn; this invariable custom is practiced partly in order that yarns of different thickness maybe distinguished each other, and partly of the important and essential function of facilitating calculations when weight has to be taken into account in the process of manufacturing . so it is very important in textile field.
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