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Published on November 10, 2008

Author: yogitexonline


TEXTILE SEMINAR2008-2009.INDIAN INSTITUTE OF HANDLOOM TECHNOLOGYSALEM. : TEXTILE SEMINAR2008-2009.INDIAN INSTITUTE OF HANDLOOM TECHNOLOGYSALEM. Slide 2: INKLE WEAVING ANCIENT WEAVING TECHNIQUE PRESENTED BY N.YOGESWARA RAO D.H.Tech. Slide 3: Inkle weaving was an ancient weaving technique done in England, for about 300 years. An “Inkle” is a braided linen tape. These braided tapes look like the bands woven on inkle looms. INTRODUCTION Slide 4: WHAT IS AN INKLE LOOM ? An inkle loom differs from other looms in that it has a continuous warp, which is wound directly onto the loom without the need for any separate warping, and the sheds for weaving are made by taking alternate threads over a peg ( heddle bar ) and pulling them down with a lease ( heddle ). Its other feature is a tension adjuster to give control of the warp tension through out the work. All the modern Inkle looms share 3 common features :- : All the modern Inkle looms share 3 common features :- 1. Continuous warp. 2. A simple lease (heddle) method to make sheds. 3. A device for controlling warp tension Slide 6: THE INKLE LOOM MAIN TERMS IN INKLE WEAVING : MAIN TERMS IN INKLE WEAVING 1.Heddles 2.Heddle bar 3.Shed 4.Shuttle 5.Tensioner 6.Warp threads 7.Weft threads Slide 9: Heddle :- A heddle is one of a set of cords that are looped over the upper set of warp threads. Heddle bar:- On a loom, the bar to which the ends of the heddles are secured. Selvedge :- On a piece of the fabric the finished edge that will not ravel is termed as selvedge. Tensioner:- The tensioner is a wing-nut assembly attached to the front bar. It is loosened as necessary to keep an even tension on the warp threads during weaving. Getting started with Inkle weaving :- : Getting started with Inkle weaving :- In order to do inkle weaving, you will need the following: An Inkle loom A shuttle Heddles Suitable yarn in sufficient quantity A yarn-darning needle or crochet hook An Inkle loom : An Inkle loom The size of loom will be arranged according to the length of the band you wish to weave. The length of the band depends on the inkle loom by how much warp we can storage on loom. HEDDLES : HEDDLES A heddle is a piece of cord or string that is looped over the upper set of warp threads. The thread using to make heddles should not be stretchable. The purpose of heddles is to keep half of the warp threads stationary while the the other half is free to be shifted either up or down in the creation of sheds. To make the heddles, you need to measure the distance from the heddle bar to the top front bar. And divide this length in half and is called as “Heddle loop measurement “. The Lt. of yarn req. for making heddle Distance between the top front bar& heddle bar = × 2 + 1-1.5 ” Slide 13: As like the preparation of harness threads, here also by wrap the thread in between the 2pegs, then you can get the same length of threads and use them for making heddles. On the loom itself the heddles can make easily. Make the loop in between top front bar and bottom heddle bar, tie the both ends with a square knot. Then remove the loop from there now the heddle is ready. Like this make the required number of heddles and make sure that all the heddles should be in same length then only the level of warp will good. PATTERNS : PATTERNS Inkle patterns are produced through the placement of the warp threads when you warp up your loom. The order that the threads are put on determines the pattern in your band. Warp threads are wound onto the loom in pairs. One thread goes over the top bar and is heddled, next goes under the top bar and is left unheddled, or free. The two sets of thread, heddled and free. Plain weave Inkle patterns are limited in one respect : there are only 2 rows of pattern that repeat over and through the band. Because of this, patterns like stripes checks or ribs are particularly suited to inkle weaving. Slide 15: In plain Inkle band, we can write the patterns as follows. Above shown the heddled threads above and the free threads below, since the heddled threads go over the top bar and the free threads under it. Now see how will the Horizontal stripes will look . Slide 16: Note that to make a wider band, you just carry the pattern on for the desired width, always beginning and ending with a heddled thread, as this holds the work secure and keeps the tension even. Some more patterns: Green with a white vertical center stripe: Slide 17: A single “square” of green surrounded by white: Checks in white and green: WARPING : WARPING This is the process of wrapping the warp threads around the pegs of the loom. The exact path that the warp threads take is dependent on your particular loom and the length of band you wish to weave. The warping process is here like the peg warping on loom it self. Here the warp is continuous. In Inkle weaving the warp is fully free to be pulled along over the pegs. This is called “Advancing of Warp.” THE MAIN STEPS IN WARPING : THE MAIN STEPS IN WARPING Take the warp thread and tie the thread on the needle bar with slip knot and pass it through the top front bar, top back bar , Middle bar , Bottom front bar , Bottom back bar and come to initial position and thread with hand and insert the heddle Slide 20: The warp threads usually paired one heddled and one free. So, the next thread will be free. Pass the thread under the top front peg. The rest of the warping for this wrap continues in the same manner as the previous wrap. Slide 21: For the third wrap the colors still remains same means continue wrap and this time heddled. This warping continues like manner until you need to switch colors. Slide 22: To switch colour, get your second colour ready, and hold the third thread and cut the warp at a position that is between the front bar and the heddles. (But better is close to or at that front bar). Keep a hold on that warp so that the tension is maintained. Tie on the new colour warp with a simple over hand knot. With a new warp tied on, continue with the warping. This creating one long strand of warp. When you have come to the end of the warping process, take the last end and first end and tie both ends with proper tension and this all makes the warp is “Continuous Warp”. SHUTTLE : SHUTTLE The shuttle is a flat wooden piece in this case. In Inkle weaving shuttle will also used for beating up of last pick. So, one side of shuttle should be thinner or sharper. This will useful for beating with good results. The weft thread wraped simply on the shuttle in the direction like the number 8. WEAVING : WEAVING Using your right hand , pass your hand behind the heddles and under the warp, raise your hand. Your hand will lift every other thread free ends). The remaining threads will be captured by the heddles on will not be able to move up. This is the first shed and now inserted the first pick. The tail length of weft should be equal or more to width of band. Slide 25: Now, remove your hand and using your left hand, pass your hand behind the heddles again but this time put it between the upper and lower parts of warp. The threads that pass through the heddles remaining up because they pass over that top front peg. Now insert the tail weft for 2nd pick and cut at the edge neatly, so that there will be not raveling of threads Slide 26: Continue weaving until you need to advance the warp. After advancing, continue weaving until end of warp (But, leave 2-3” gap between both ends). For last two picks care must be taken. Take a yarn-darning needle/ crochet hook and insert the weft, cut the weft yarn after leaving some tail weft. The tail is drawn through the needle or hook and pulled, then the weft is placed now in the place of needle which already inserted. Now cut the warp threads in between 1st and last pick of the band and remove from loom. Slide 27: Now i will show you a video that will makes you a clear understand about this Inkle weaving Slide 29: Still now you have seen plain inkle weaving, now you can see about creating designs on inkle band. EX :- O    W W W W W B B B B B B W W W W W  16 H  W W W W W W W W W W W W W W W W 16 Line 1: This line requires no adjustments, weave as normal.Line 2: Switch your shed, pushing all the pattern (open) threads to the bottom. Pick up the first and last pattern threads (first and sixth). Pass your weft.Line 3: ……to the top. Push down the second and third pattern threads. Pass your weft.Line 4:… the bottom. Pick up the first pattern thread. Pass your weft.Line 5: This line requires no adjustments, weave as normal.Line 6: ……to the bottom. Pick up the last (sixth) pattern thread. Pass your weft.Line 7: ……to the top. Push down the fourth and fifth pattern threads. Pass your weft.Line 8: ……to the bottom. Pick up the first and sixth. Pass your weft.Line 9: This line requires no adjustments, weave as normal.Line 10: This line requires no adjustments, weave as normal. Slide 30: CORDING: Take two small groups of end threads and twist them (separately) in same direction. Then twist the two together in the other direction. Finish the end with a simple over hand knot. FINISHING OF INKLE BANDS Slide 31: KNOTTING: Simple over hand knots can be used to secure the ends, either with the ends left free for a fringe or with rows of knots like macrame. OVER HAND KNOTS Slide 32: SEWING THE ENDS: First cut of the long, fringe ends, then either roll the end back on itself to hide the raw ends, or fold a piece of cloth or bias tape over the cut edge. Secure with a simple over hand stitch. ROLLED& SEWN PACKAGED & SEWN Slide 33: Narrow tapes, bands can produce by these looms and they can be used as belts or for decorating edges of a garment. END PRODUCTS OF INKLE WEAVING Slide 34: CONCLUSION Here in Inkle weaving the production may low and time consumption is more, But this is one of the base for our handlooms. Though it is not practiced in India it has its own rich cultural heritage in parts of England and America. It forms a basic essential part of normal weaving. As this maintains the tradition we hope that it will continue to have its existence. Slide 35: yogi by

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